Adrienne Keene: Cultural appropriation reinforces past wrongs

Cultural appropriation is not about a simple "borrowing" of cultural elements or an equal cultural exchange — it's a much more insidious, harmful act that reinforces existing systems of power. Throughout the history of the United States, policies and practices have attempted to forcibly assimilate native peoples and erase our cultures, through government-run boarding schools that had the goal of “Kill the Indian, Save the Man,” and laws that prohibited the practice of native language, spirituality and culture, and more. It wasn’t until 1978 with the passing of the Native American Religious Freedom Act that we were even allowed to legally practice our spirituality or keep sacred feathers, two elements often “borrowed” by outsiders.

I often write and think about how these power dynamics play out in the world of fashion. When I, as a native person, walk a store and see racks and racks of products featuring decontextualized “native” designs, with no connection to their communities that have protected and held these cultural markers for centuries, I can't help but think of this history, and wonder when we will have the power to control our own culture. With over 500 tribes in the United States, there is not one “Native American” anything. Each image or design comes from a particular tribe, often even a particular family, and we should have the ability to share, or not share, as we see fit.

The example I often turn to is the "warbonnet"-style headdress seen gracing the heads of everyone from the Paul Frank's monkey mascot Julius, to model Karlie Kloss or last month, Kimberly Stewart (wearing nothing but the headdress on national television). This headdress has been "borrowed" so many times and in so many ways that its original power and sacred meaning have been all but lost to the non-native public.