"There are three ways to get to Supai Village -- by foot, by helicopter or by mule. We chose to walk the trail on a cold but sunny November morning. A dozen mules made their way out of the canyon as we hoofed it down the switchbacks. We felt a bit like mules ourselves with our 30-pound backpacks. Visitors learn quickly to listen for the herd’s thundering hooves and get out of its way pronto. Nothing stops a mule train. It’s a 10-mile hike to the majestic waterfalls for which Havasu Canyon is known. Before you reach the falls visitors must walk through Supai Village, where about 400 tribal members live. Just beyond the helicopter landing Diana Baby Sue White Dove Uqualla waited for us at her home.

"This whole canyon is sacred so I honor each and every one of you for walking and touching my ancestors," Uqualla said.

The medicine woman stood out like a rare desert flower. She was the only one we saw in a traditional satin dress. Most were in T shirts and jeans like the tourists they rely on. Uqualla wore turquoise and beaded jewelry and an eagle feather in her hair. She painted dark red lines from her eyes to her chin. She said they represent the tears she cries for all human suffering."

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Havasupai Medicine Woman Heals More Than Tribe (Fronteras 1/30)